Ice, ice baby. This past weekend found GearFlogger on a local glacier doing what we love most, flogging gear. Hence our name. We were setting a v-thread (AKA Abalakov) anchor when someone brought up the question of their reliability.
We looked into it using Google but could find no reference to real-world testing done on v-threads. If anyone knows better please post. Not that we’ve ever had a problem with one, but I don’t like to be caught flat-footed when someone asks for evidence. GearFlogger is not into faith-based safety practices.
Word to your mutha.
2 responses to “V-Thread Anchors”
I saw a “live” abalakov test at an Ice festival here in Norway. They measured the abalakov to be stronger (>1300kg) than the ice screws (1100-1300kg).
Of course I dont have any reference for this test, which screws used etc, but the test persons came from a shop http://www.VPG.no and the test seemed good to me.
This was in ~5 degrees below zero, in the sun, but good ice. Of course it all depends on the ice conditions, but the worse ice the more abalakovs you should make before rapelling (could be one abalakov in really hard ice, while you might use up to 4 abalakovs in soft ice if you have enough slings/bands.
http://hmga.gr/storehouse/word-acrobat/Ice%20Climbing%20Anchor%20Strength%20-%20MRA%202009%20-%20Marc%20Beverly.pdf
Mean failure was 11.3kn for traditional horizontal abalakov, vertical orientation was stronger with a mean of 14.4kn