Climbing Anchors book

Climbing_anchorsIf you’re going to be frigging in the rigging, read Climbing Anchors, Second Edition by John Long and Bob Gaines. Completely revised from the 1993 first edition, this book will benefit novice and expert climbers alike with over 200 pages of solid advice.

In 1990 I took a class taught by these two through Vertical Adventures, learning more about anchors in one weekend than I had since I began climbing several years prior.

I also remember their sense of humor, which I’m happy to see they haven’t lost: "I imagined a loop snapping on one of those rivets, and Mike zippering down onto that jive bolt, which surely would pop, and I wept pitifully and pissed my pants." Ah, good times.

This book combines experience with evidence, incorporating sound science and frequently including citations in case you want to investigate further. The only downside is nothing about ice and snow. This focus on rock climbing can occasionally mislead alpinists, for example when they neglect to mention the advantage of spectra material not absorbing water.

One other nitpick: some of the photographs are disturbingly dated, evoking vague memories of climbing in neon spandex. Not me, but people I knew.

$10.85 at



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